Syllabus:
GS3: Awareness in the fields of IT, Space, Computers, Robotics, Nano-technology, Bio-technology and issues relating to Intellectual Property Rights.
Context: Recently, Italian luxury brand Prada showcased leather slippers resembling Kolhapuri chappals in its 2026 men’s spring-summer collection, which sparked controversy for its lack of credit to product’s Indian origin.
More on the News
- Kolhapuri chappals have the geographical indication (GI) tag that certifies how a product originates from a specific geographical area and possesses qualities or a reputation because of that origin.
- The manufacturers of Kolhapuri chappals are reportedly planning to move court against Prada’s allegedly unethical business practice.
- The chappal makers argue that the design of Prada’s footwear amounts to cultural appropriation and a violation of the GI tag because it is too close to the original Kolhapuri.
Kolhapuri Chappal
- Historical Background:
- The origin of Kolhapuri Chappals dates back to 12th century when the King Bijjala of Kalyani Chalukya and his prime minister Basavanna encouraged Kolhapuri Chappal production to support local cordwainers.
- According to historic records, Kolhapuris were first worn as early as the 13th century.
- Previously known as Kapashi, Paytaan, Kachkadi, Bakkalnali, and Pukri, the name indicated the village where they were made.
- Kolhapuri chappal is a handcrafted leather sandal originating from the Kolhapur region of Maharashtra and parts of Karnataka.
- Recognition: It was awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019, ensuring only authentic artisans from designated regions can use the name.
- Key Features:
- These slippers are made from vegetable-tanned leather (buffalo, camel, or cowhide), ensuring durability.
- Design:
- Hand-stitched with intricate patterns.
- Flat sole with minimalistic straps (single or double cross bands).
- Natural dyes (red, brown, or black) derived from plant sources.
GI Tag Award
- A GI tag helps preserve traditional knowledge, cultural heritage, and the livelihoods of its local practitioners.
- Legal Framework: The Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, governs the registration and protection of GI tags in India.
- Basis of GI Tag:
- Geographical Origin Link: The product must originate from a specific place, and its quality, reputation, or characteristics must be essentially attributable to that geographical origin.
- Defined Production Standards: Detailed production methods, materials, and quality benchmarks must be specified in the application.
- Registered Proprietors & Authorized Users: Only those entities that are registered as authorized users can legally use the GI.
- Prohibition on Transferability: GI tags are non-transferable and cannot be licensed like trademarks.
- Enforcement and Monitoring: Owners and governments are expected to monitor misuse and initiate legal action against counterfeiting or false usage.
- No Generic Term Usage: A GI should not be or become a generic name for a product.
Difficulty in protecting traditional crafts
- The protection of traditional crafts is difficult primarily because the intellectual property (IP) systems that exist today, like patents, trademarks, or copyrights, were designed for individual innovation, not collective heritage.
- IP laws need identifiable creators and documentation, but traditional crafts are community-made, ancient, undocumented, and already fail key IP criteria. They also require timeless protection, unlike the limited duration of most IP rights.